It is a known problem that in Slic3r for Windows the drop-down lists for the profile selection are too narrow to display the full profile name. This can make it impossible to choose the correct profile when processing your slicing settings for creating a G-code.

Try the following to bypass the problem:

• Select a profile from the drop-down list and click the <save> symbol.
  This way, you make the profile name visible and editable.

• Delete the current profile name and replace it with a short description, e.g. “LEFT ONLY” instead of “Kuehling&Kuehling RepRap Industrial - LEFT EXTRUDER ONLY”.

• The shorter description will be fully visible in the list.

Repeat these steps for all long profile names.

Accurate leveling is vitally important for the print result. Although correct first layer settings can compensate for slight unevennesses of the print bed, false leveling will ruin a print within the first few layers. Evidence for a leveling mistake can be:

1. Asymmetrical layer thickness, especially of the first layer, due to lopsided leveling.
   • On one side of the print bed the extruded strand is laid on the print bed instead of being spread → the print bed and the nozzle are too far apart.
   • On the other side of the print bed the extruded strand is pressed onto the print bed until the nozzle tip is clogged → the print bed and the nozzle are too close.
2. Smearing of the extrusion and possibly clogging of the nozzle due to too closely leveled bed.
3. Strands do not stick to the print bed but are being pulled away by the nozzle tip. Of course, this can be due to a wrong bed temperature also – better double-check.
4. Extrusion of rounded, unjoined strands.

To avoid such irritations, make use of the following tips:

• Always make sure that the build chamber is adequately and uniformly preheated to at least 90 % of the target temperature (e.g. 63 °C for ABS).
  The Z-end stop is temperature sensitive and may cause deviating positioning when exposed to temperature variations.
  Keep the build chamber doors as shortly open as possible during leveling to avoid too much heat loss.
• If you removed the print bed, always re-insert it in the same direction and orientation it had during leveling.
• Put the print bed with the convex side down onto the print table.
• After adjusting all three leveling points, return the print head to the first position (tap the [Back] button). Check the bed - tip distance by tapping (not pressing) the print bed with a finger next to the nozzle tip: if you see a gap appearing at the slightest touch, the leveling point is correctly adjusted. If even the least pressure is required, the leveling is too high. Repeat this at the other two leveling points. Have a look at the adjacent videos for visual explanation.
• Before waisting time on unsuccessful leveling, please rethink if the currently installed nozzle tip is adequate for the print job. Wider nozzles are more tolerant when it comes to compensating leveling mistakes and may be more suited to the task, especially when printing larger parts.

If you find it difficult to adjust the three leveling points uniformly with only the spring pressure, place a sheet of paper (not more than standard 80 g/m²) between the nozzle tip and the print bed and carefully push the bed against the tip before fastening the set screws. This way, you ensure a uniform bed - tip distance at all three leveling points.

Another way of making leveling a little bit less important is “floating” your print on a raft. Slic3r (and most other slicing software) provides the “raft” function, a special kind of support material, which means that before starting with the actual object a (customizable) number of loosely printed layers is printed to compensate slight leveling mistakes. If you choose the raft settings correctly, beginning with a layer as wide and thick as allowable (depending on the nozzle tip's diameter) leveling will become a much less annoying process.
The raft's first layer is treated as the print's first layer and uses the respective settings. The following layers of the raft are calculated according to the support material settings. Choose the maximal first layer height (Slic3r → Print Settings → Layers and perimeters/First layer height) and a first layer extrusion width of 250 % (Slic3r → Print Settings → Advanced/Extrusion width -First layer) for a compensating, condoning and stable raft.
The raft can either be built of the model's material and cut away later or, if available for the specific plastic, of support material and broken off or dissolved. Check with the Materials' section to see if a secondary support material is available. For break-away or soluble rafts the dual extrusion function of the RepRap Industrial is required. Remember to check that all necessary calibrations and settings have been made as described in the Knowledgebase.

To find the correct multiplier, open the Setup menu at the GUI and choose [Calibrate Extrusion].

A detailed description for ABS filament can be found here.
For other materials, the same procedure applies but you have to prepare a G-code for the test print.

To create a G-code for the extrusion calibration, you need an stl-file of a cube with the dimensions 30x30x15 mm (download here).

Load the stl-file in Slic3r and select the Print Settings tab.

Choose the SOLID profile as a basis.
Choose the following settings to make the cube a box without a lid and only one perimeter of 0.5 mm thickness for a wall:

Upload the G-code to your 3D printer, print it, measure the wall thicknesses, and calculate the mean value.

Then open the [Calibrate Extrusion] wizard and enter the mean value.

The displayed extrusion multiplier can be entered in Slic3r (Filament settings) and saved in the filament profile.

• Open the [Printer Settings] tab in Slic3r and choose the Custom G-code menu.
• Activate the End G-code editor by clicking into the text field.
• Position the cursor in the last line before the ; /END-GCODE entry.
• Enter the command
  M104 S0 T2
  This will set the heating elements of the build chamber to a temperature of 0 °C.
• Enter the command
  M140 S0
  This will deactivate the print bed as the last action of the current G-code.

Since hitherto the RepRap Industrial is the only commercially available Open Source 3D printer with an actively heated build chamber, common slicing software does not feature ambient temperature settings. For some materials, it is advantageous to modify the chamber temperature together with the other temperature settings. The build chamber's temperature of the RepRap Industrial is set via the “Start G-code” which can be manually altered.

To change the build chamber temperature (in the following example we use our standard Slic3r - other software may differ in denotations):

1. Open your slicing software.
2. Open the tab “Printer Settings” and choose “Custom G-code”.

3. Go to the line reading:
   

    M104 S70 T2; set recirculating air heater to 70 degree celcius target temperature

4. Change the entry “Sxy” (here S70) by replacing the value xy with the desired temperature, for example 50° C:
   

   M104 S50 T2; set recirculating air heater to 50 degree celcius target temperature

   (for logical reasons, the comment should be aligned)

5. If you want to keep the settings, save them in the profile (see Slic3r manual).

Any G-code exported with this profile loaded will heat the build chamber to the stated temperature prior to printing.

The following list contains supported G-code commands that can be used on demand to directly interfere with a print procedure or setting via the G-code keyboard of the GUI's Log menu.